Photography Step By Step

This mode represents the digital camera’s ability to take several shots immediately one after another, similar to a film SLR camera with a motorwind. The number of frames per second and total number of frames differs greatly between camera types and models. The fps is a function of the shutter release and image processing systems of the camera. The number of frames that can be taken is defined by the size of the buffer where images are stored before they are processed (in case of a before image processing buffer) and written to the storage card.

The number of frames per second and total number of frames that can be shot in burst mode is continuously improving and is higher as you move from consumer digital compacts to professional digital SLRs. Digital compacts typically allow 1 to 3 fps with bursts of up to about 10 images while digital SLRs have fps of up to 7 or more and can shoot dozens of frames in JPEG and RAW. Some even allow an initial burst of higher fps followed by a slower but continuous fps until the storage card is full.

After the sensor in the camera is exposed, the image data will be processed and then written to the storage card. The buffer inside a digital camera consists of RAM memory which holds the image information before it is written out to storage card. This process makes the time between shots shorter and allows burst (continuous) shooting mode. The very first digital cameras didn’t have any buffer, so after you took the shot you had to wait for the image to be written to the storage card before you could take the next shot. Now most digital cameras have relatively large buffers which allow them to operate as quickly as a film camera while writing data to the storage card in the background (without interrupting your ability to shoot).
The number of images that can be shot in continuous (burst) mode is affected by the location of the buffer within the camera (which normally is not specified by the producer). The buffer memory is located either before or after the image processing.
Before Image Processing Buffer
In this method no image processing is carried out and the RAW data from the CCD is placed immediately in the buffer. In parallel to other camera tasks, the RAW images are processed and written to the storage card. In cameras with this type of buffer, the number of frames which can be taken in burst mode cannot be increased by reducing image file size. But the number of frames per second (fps) is independent of the image processing speed (until the buffer is full).
After Image Processing Buffer
With this method the images are processed and turned into their final output format before they are placed in the buffer. As a consequence, the number of shots which can be taken in a burst can be increased by reducing image file size (e.g. shoot in JPEG, reduce JPEG quality, reduce resolution).
Smart Buffering
The “smart buffering” combines elements from the above two buffering methods. Just like in the “Before Image Processing Buffer” the unprocessed image data are stored into the buffer allowing for a higher fps. They are then processed and converted into JPEG, TIFF or RAW. But instead of writing the processed images to the storage card they are stored in the buffer. Therefore, the image processing is not bottlenecked by the writing to the storage card, which happens in parallel. Moreover, it constantly frees up buffer space for new images since processed images takes up less space than RAW once, especially in the case of JPEG. Just like in the “After Image Processing Buffer”, the output images are then written from the buffer to the storage card. But an important difference is that here the image processing happens in parallel with writing to the storage card. So the image processing of new images can continue while the other images are being written to the storage card. This means that you do not necessarily have to wait for the entire burst of frames to be written to the CF card before there is enough space to take another full burst.

Disposable AAs
Given the high power consumption of digital cameras, it is economically and environmentally unjustified to use disposable batteries other than in emergency situations when your rechargeables are depleted. Disposable Lithium AAs are more expensive than Alkalines, but having about three times the power packed in half the weight, they are ideal to carry with you as a backup.
Rechargeable AAs (NiCd and NiMH)
NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) rechargeable AA batteries are much better than the older NiCd (Nickel Cadmium) AAs. They have no “memory effect” (explained below) and are more than twice as powerful. Capacities are constantly improving and differ per brand.
Rechargeable Lithium-ion Batteries
Li-ion (Lithium-ion) rechargeable batteries are lighter, more compact, but more expensive than NiMH batteries. They have no memory effect and always come in proprietary formats (there are no rechargeable Li-ion AAs). Some cameras also accept disposable Lithium batteries, such as 2CR5s or CR2s via an adapter, ideal for backup purposes.
Charging
Fully charged batteries will gradually lose their charge, even when not used. So if you have not used your camera for a few weeks, make sure you bring a freshly charged battery along on your shootout. Charging NiCD batteries before they are fully discharged will reduce the maximum capacity of subsequent charges. As the effect gets stronger when repeated often, it is called “memory effect”. It is therefore recommended to recharge the batteries only after they are fully depleted. To a lesser extent, this is also useful for NiMH or Lithium-ion batteries, although they have virtually no memory effect. Doing so will also increase the life span of the battery which is determined by the number of “charge-discharge” cycles that depends on the type and brand.

Now you have an idea about the differences between point and shoot digital cameras and DSLRs and you know which one is best for you. The next step is to actually buy the camera. In the next few lessons I will explain to you a couple of very important technical aspects that are essentials in choosing the right camera from the vast number of models that exists on the market today.

In every camera’s specifications you will find the number of megapixels that it has. But what is a megapixel? A megapixel means 1 million pixels. A pixel is a single point in a graphic image. All graphic images are made up of thousands of tiny points. If your camera is 5 megapixels, it means that any pictures it takes will consist of 5 million of these pixels (on its highest quality setting). Generally, 5 megapixels is enough to print good quality 8x10s. But just because one camera has a certain amount of megapixels doesn’t mean that it will take better pictures with one with a lower amount. There are many factors which affect this, including build quality, type of camera, etc.

If you’re just planning on printing small prints of your photos, or viewing your photos on a computer, you can do this with a lower number of megapixels. But if you want to print quality 8x10s, you will need a bigger number of them. For a quality print, you’d want to start with a photography which contains at least 240 DPI (or dots per inch), 300 DPI would be even better, but 240 is enough. So, for a 4×6 print at 200 DPI, we would need an image size of 960×1440 pixels or better. For a 5×7, we would need 1200×1680, and for an 8×10 we would need 1920×2400 or greater. Now, most 5 megapixel cameras produce an image of around 2592×1944, which when printed at 240dpi comes out to a 10.8″ x 8.1″ print. So, with a 5 megapixel camera you could print 8x10s but only is you are not cropping your image.

Why isn’t more megapixels always better? Camera companies keep increasing the number of megapixels and now even some point and shoot cameras have well over 10 megapixels. But does this mean that they will take pictures of better quality than older models with lower number of megapixels? The answer is no. By continuously increasing the number of megapixels which cameras can output, the camera companies are not paying as much attention to quality as they should. Just because you are cramming more pixels into a photo doesn’t mean that the pixels are sharp enough for there to be any discernible increase in image quality. So, while your pictures may be getting larger, they might not even be sharp enough to be printed at this larger size, merely because there was an increase in pixels, but not an increase in quality. In theory, more megapixels would mean a nicer photo, but in actuality it may just mean a terrible photo composed of more dots.

Once you get past 4 megapixels or so, the resolution stops mattering as much, and optical quality comes more into play. This is why a 8 megapixel DSLR camera will take better pictures than a 10 or 12 megapixel point and shoot digital. Another fact worth mentioning is that DSLRs have larger sensors than a typical point and shoot. These larger sensors produce much less noise than their point and shoot rivals, leading to a much cleaner shot.

Some camera manufacturers have released cameras with the DSLR label that technically are not. I’ll define DSLR’s as cameras that have removable lenses, that have a reflex mirror which allows live optical viewing through the lens taking the image. DSLR’s use a mirror that allows you to see the image you’re about to shoot through the view finder – when you take the shot the mirror flips up allowing the image sensor to capture the image.

Here I will present the strengths and weaknesses of these cameras. To do that I need to use some terms that may be new to you, but I’ll explain all of them in later lessons.

Strengths:

Image Quality – due to the larger size of image sensors in DSLRs which allows for larger pixel sizes, DSLRs are able to be used at a faster ISO which will lead to faster shutter speeds and less grain.

Speed – DSLR’s are fast pieces of machinery when it comes to things like start up, focusing and shutter speed.

Large ISO range – this varies between cameras but generally DSLRs offer a wide array of ISO settings which makes them very flexible in shooting in different conditions.

Adaptability – DSLR’s ability to change lenses opens up a world of possibilities for photographers. DSLRs can be fitted with many high quality lenses ranging from wide angle to super long focal lengths. Add to this a large range of other accessories (flashes, filters etc) and a DSLR can be adapted to many different situations. When it comes to lenses the diversity in quality of lenses is great. Image quality is impacted greatly by the quality of the lens you use.

Optical Viewfinder – due to the reflex mirror DSLR’s are very much a what you see is what you get operation.

Manual Controls – a DSLR is designed in such a way that it is assumed that the photographer using it will want to control their own settings. While they do come with good auto modes the manual controls are generally built in in such a way that they are at the photographers finger tips as they are shooting.

Quality Optics – in general the lenses that you’ll find on a DSLR are superior to a point and shoot camera. DSLR lenses are larger and many of them have many hours of time put into their manufacture.

Weaknesses:

Price – while they are coming down in price DSLR’s are generally more expensive than point and shoot digital cameras. Also consider that you might want to upgrade your lens or you may wish to add more lenses later and that this adds to the cost of a DSLR.

Size and Weight – DSLRs are heavy and sizable and when you add a lens or two to your kit bag you can end up with quite the load!

Maintenance – every time you change lenses you run the risk of letting dust into your camera. Dust on an image sensor is a real annoyance as it will leave your images looking blotchy. Cleaning your image sensor is not a job for the faint hearted. Many new DSLRs are being released with self cleaning sensors.

Complexity – while DSLRs are designed for manual use this means you need to know how to use the tools that they give you and the learning curve can be quite steep.